Distant travel is getting closer and closer. We can once again look beyond our borders and make plans. MASTERS is already exploring the Philippines, an archipelago paradise with the whitest powder sand and bluest lagoons.Text: Harmke Kraak | Online Editor: Natasha Hendriks
Image: Esther Quelle
Today is a good day, says the pillow on my seat in the Boeing 777. And whether it is a good day! In Qatar Airways' business class en route to the Philippines, I have complete privacy thanks to the sliding door next to my seat. Regularly, the flight attendant comes "over the fence" to ask if I want something to eat or drink. Once landed in Manila, photographer Esther and I make our way to New World Makati Hotel in the business district. The notoriously busy traffic is moving at walking pace, but we have plenty of time. From our private cab, we spot Jeepneys, modernized U.S. Army jeeps in bright colors that serve as mass cabs. During the ride, our guide DJ sings a welcome song: Mabuhay. It stands for good wishes. DJ: "We Filipinos love to sing. We look like Asians, have the brains of Americans, but the hearts of Spaniards!" For three centuries, the Philippines fell under Spanish rule. In 1898, America took over. Since 1946, the country has been officially independent. The name Philippines refers to Spanish King Philip II (1527-1598). DJ takes us to the Legazpi Sunday Market a day later. We stroll past the food stalls. We taste bibingka galapong, rice cake that tastes like egg cake, and buy the super powder moringa, which consists of the finely ground leaves of a Filipino plant full of beneficial ingredients. A historic landmark in Manila is Fort Santiago on the Pasig River. Hundreds of water lilies float in the fast-flowing water. Also, we explore Intramuros, the Spanish colonial neighborhood. Most of the buildings here are replicas, as the neighborhood was destroyed during World War II. Only the Augustine Church withstood the bombing. Even more churches - Filipinos are more Catholic than the Spanish themselves - are seen outside the metropolis of Metro Manila. The white church in the village of Betis has ceiling paintings reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel. The manager of the church tells us from which point to take a picture and even grabs Esther's arm to adjust her camera. We have to laugh about it. We drive back to Manila via Highway 54. The skyline by night consists of gold-bordered buildings.
We leave Manila and land among coconut palms on the island of Siargao in the southeast. The Philippines includes 7,641 islands divided into three regions. Luzon is the region of capital Manila, Visayas is the middle region and Mindanao includes the southern islands including Siargao. The guide for the remainder of the trip listens to the "cozy" name Stalin. "My father had a passion for Russia, full name is Stalingrad," he says. Drinking from a fresh coconut, we immediately caught a vacation feeling at Siargao. The exuberant atmosphere at the Magpupungko Rockpool, a natural pool among the rocks in the sea, also contributes to this. People happily jump and dive into the clear blue water. Then we take a boat trip past mangroves to Sugba Lagoon, a lagoon where tourists are only allowed to dock in doses. This is because the Philippine government is increasingly concerned about the environment, although our outrigger boat is not a textbook example of environmental friendliness. The engine makes a hell of a racket. Fortunately, the earplugs from the Qatar Airways business class offer relief. In the beautiful green lagoon we can swim, kayak and supp. The next day we visit Bucas Grande Island. 'Here you will find peace, serenity of the mind, tranquility of the soul, simplicity of the heart,' I read on a wall. We paddle boat to orange jellyfish and have lunch on a palm island paradise. On the table come bowls of mango, pineapple, rice, prawns and shells: spider shells. Some food remains on each bowl. "Filipinos will never take the last bite, we think that's rude," Stalin laughs. By sunset, we are back at our resort Siargao Bleu in the town of General Luna. There is a laid-back atmosphere at Siargao. The main street is a succession of surf shops and restaurants. Tricycles, a kind of tuktuks, drive back and forth. We take a look at Cloud Nine on the Pacific Ocean. It is the best surf spot in the Philippines and hosts international competitions every year. From the pier, we watch the surfers. On the left, beginners are trying to hold their own, on the right are experienced surfers. It is sensational how they manage to defy the waves. We end the evening in the Rumbar, where a local band performs. Every night there is a party in General Luna.
On a country road with stray pigs and cows and past rice fields, we drive back to the airport. From Siargao we fly to the central island of Cebu and cross by ferry to the island of Bohol. On shore, a delegation awaits us as if we were Máxima and Willem-Alexander and we are given a beaded necklace to wear. The tricycles on Bohol carry religious texts like "In God we trust. "There used to be sexy pictures on them, but that led to protests from deeply religious people," Stalin says. We go to Tarsier Sanctuary, a nature preserve. Tarsiers, or ghost animals, are unique. They are primates, though their long tails make them look like miniature monkeys. They sleep during the day, but to our good fortune, these nocturnal creatures still show themselves. They cling to the branches of a pandan tree and follow us with their big eyes. Another attraction on Bohol are the Chocolate Hills, which we drive to the next day with the indefatigable Stalin - he carries our suitcases, arranges our plane tickets, provides us with water. The hills near the town of Carmen today are not chocolate brown, but green like mint chocolate. Once created by volcanic eruptions, they were simply called Carmen Hills until an American remarked that the hills reminded her of Hershey's chocolates. We climbed the two hundred steps to the top of one hill and looked out over hundreds of other "humps. Impressively beautiful. Then we hurry to the Loboc River for a river cruise. Our private boat glides silently over the emerald green water as we feast on bowls full of food. Along the banks, children sing and dance for the passing boats. No visit to Bohol without tasting Dalareich Chocolate House's chocolate! It is the success story of Ricardo Polot, a former tricycle driver, and his wife Elsa, who once swept streets. Starting in 2009, they plunged fully into their chocolate business. Daughter Dalareich (sounds like Dollar Rich) even went on to study at the Cocoa Lab in Ghent. Ten years later, the family won gold at a prestigious competition in London. One of the daughters explains, "Bohol is known for the Chocolate Hills, we wanted to put real chocolate on the map. People on Bohol don't realize they have gold in their backyard with all the cocoa trees!" Also a success is Bohol Bee Farm. This bee farm, not far from our South Palms beach hotel, attracts crowds of visitors. These, like us, come not only for the bees and honey, but also for the delectable organic ice cream.
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