How a Michelin inspector judges

In his 37-year career, Werner Loens has eaten in approximately 8.500 restaurants. Now he has one more: Restaurant M*. How does the former director of Michelin Benelux rate this pop-up restaurant of MASTERS EXPO?

What an unforgettable experience it was to be present at MASTERS EXPO in RAI Amsterdam at the beginning of this grey December! For me it was a special honour to be invited for the very first time to this unique event, just after I had retired as director of Michelin Benelux after a career of 37 years.

Impressive concept

Over the course of five days, more than thirty Dutch Michelin-starred chefs came together to prepare eight high-quality menus for an average of 120 guests per meal. This required not only precision and craftsmanship, but also flawless cooperation between the chefs, their brigades and the serving staff. A major logistical and culinary feat that proves how high the bar is set in the world of haute cuisine. Since 2017, this event has become indispensable for MASTERS EXPO and every year it becomes an even grander and more refined spectacle.

The location: stylish luxury

The temporary restaurant, designed by ExpoFlora, Masters HQ. and Maretti, radiated discreet luxury and style. The atmosphere was inviting and exclusive, a harmonious combination of contemporary elegance and classic grandeur. A wide staircase in the middle of the large hall led to the exclusive dining area. Climbing this staircase felt like entering another world, one where the best culinary experiences came together at the highest level. Once at the top, guests were welcomed with a glass of English 'bubbles' from the Gusbourne Estate and a generous spoonful of caviar, served by House of Caviar. A promising start to a special culinary journey. The large, beautifully set round tables - provided by Héman and decorated with flowers by Stylerz24 - awaited an elegant audience that perfectly matched the setting and the gastronomic level of the dishes. The atmosphere was further enhanced by the impressive musical accompaniment of the ladies of Pasta & Basta. Their unique combination of live music and entertainment added an extra dimension to the experience and made it even more memorable.

The kitchen: precision and harmony

From a strategic position in the kitchen, I had the privilege of observing the organization and expertise of the chefs and their teams. What struck me was the impressive precision with which each dish was prepared and served, in a relaxed and 'cool' atmosphere. No stress, no chaos - just a perfectly attuned team that worked like a well-oiled machine. The collaboration between the teams was smooth and with visible pleasure. This was a beautiful reflection of the camaraderie that prevails in the culinary world, where chefs not only compete with each other but also learn from and inspire each other. I myself could not resist adding a small garnish to the endless row of plates - and all of this in tuxedos, matching the ambiance. The chefs proudly wore a personalized jacket from Le Nouveau Chef.

The dishes: taste explosions galore

The level of the dishes served was exceptional. Each dish reflected the signature and craftsmanship of the chef, where technique, innovation and taste merge perfectly. As an example, a few starters:
– 'Caviar with Brussels sprouts, coffee, sea urchin and mandarin'– Sydney Schutte (Spectrum**, Amsterdam): A daring, yet fascinating taste experience. The contrast between the salty caviar, the bitter notes of coffee and the freshness of mandarin made for an impressive taste palette.
– 'Pommes Paulo' with oxtail, morel sauce, smoked Hollandaise and truffle – André Gerrits ('t Amsterdammertje*, Loenen aan de Vecht): Rich and powerful in taste. This dish managed to find a perfect balance between heartiness, depth and texture.
– 'Vegan seasonal vegetable composition' – Bas van Kranen (Flore**, Amsterdam): A full-fledged dish that didn't miss meat or fish at all. The layered structures and deep flavors proved that plant-based dishes at Michelin level can belong to the absolute top.
– 'Rusk (crispy potato) with black mice (caviar and chive cream)' – Jarno Eggen (De Groene Lantaarn**, Staphorst): Decadent and emotionally stimulating. This dish was a tribute to the simplicity of pure ingredients and the power of craftsmanship.

…and also some main courses…

– 'Papillotte of turbot with lava and potato' – Tom Vinke (De Kromme Watergang*, Hoofdplaat): Smart, perfectly executed and balanced. The turbot was perfectly cooked, the lava gave a subtle earthiness and the potato provided an elegant bond between all the flavours.
– 'Polderhoen en croûte with salsify and black truffle' – Michel van der Kroft ('t Nonnetje*, Harderwijk): An absolute winner. The perfect cuisson en croûte of the polderhoen and the rich flavour of the truffle brought this dish to an unparalleled level.
– 'Duck with Jerusalem artichoke, sauerkraut and truffle' – Nelson Tenate (De Librije***, Zwolle): Technically strong and full of depth. An impressive dish that emphasized the craftsmanship of the profession.

…and of course a few desserts

– 'Fourme d'Ambert with poached pear, salsify and pecan nut' – Ollie Schuiling (Kasteel Heemstede*, Houten): A refined conclusion without missing a classic sweet dessert. The harmony between the savoury cheese and the subtle sweetness of the pear was simply sublime.
– 'Vanilla ice cream with a generous portion of caviar, popcorn crunch and olive oil' – Tim Golsteijn (Bougainville*, Amsterdam): A daring, yet sublime finish that set the taste buds on edge. An unexpected combination that worked perfectly with the balance of salt, sweet and the minerality of the olive oil.
The experience: perfect service
The dishes were accompanied by excellent wines from wine importer Vinites, expertly poured by the team of Henrico van Lammeren. And of course a perfect Manetti Espresso Italiano to finish! The service was also a model of professionalism. A top trio of professionals – Sofie van Delft, Thom van der Heide and Allard Sieburgh – guided the enthusiastic students of the ROC Hotelschool, supported by a few former students. This not only ensured a seamless service, but also gave young talents the opportunity to learn from the best in the business.

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Every meal was a culinary experience at the highest level. The synergy between top chefs, an impressive location and an exceptional team resulted in a unique experience that I experienced with great admiration. MASTERS EXPO proved once again why it is an indispensable culinary event for lovers of refined gastronomy. I have been proud to witness the strong evolution of Dutch gastronomy over the past thirty years. The current generation of chefs is now undoubtedly among the world's best and continues to push the boundaries of taste and experience. MASTERS EXPO is not only a stage for top chefs, but also an ode to the culinary art in its purest form. An event that continues to shape the future of haute cuisine.

Werner in numbers

After 37 years as Michelin inspector and director, Werner Loens has retired from the Michelin Guide. During his career, he assessed more than 8.500 meals in 20 countries, stayed in 3.600 hotels, wrote 20.000 reports and travelled 1.600.000 kilometres. He was partly responsible for awarding more than 400 Michelin stars. At the invitation of Yves Gijrath and Carsten Klint, he took a seat as a guest at the Chef's Table in the kitchen of pop-up Restaurant M* during MASTERS EXPO, to taste the dishes of more than 30 Dutch top chefs whose restaurants have been awarded more than 50 stars by Michelin.