Nicole Scheffers: "We became great by surprising people"

Our driver stops at the drawbridge of a fourteenth-century knight's castle. Soenil Bahadoer is eagerly awaiting us. With his new restaurant GEM.** (with a period, English pronunciation), the acclaimed Michelin-starred chef has realized his dream: a gem of a restaurant, located in the gatehouse of Gemert Castle in the Brabant Peel region. Open for only two months, he suddenly earned two Michelin stars. Voila, in the bag. A unique achievement. Given Soenil's track record (Lindehof**, Nuenen), it's not a complete surprise, but it is an exceptional achievement. So you're doing something very well.

Record holder on the Python

Together with the proud chef-patron, we enter the enchanting estate. There are vegetable and kitchen gardens, orchards, and centuries-old oak trees. Everything exudes the atmosphere of a fairytale from the past. Reason enough to share the table today with Nicole Scheffers, director of Park & ​​Resorts at Efteling. Sidekick Rijk de Gooijer, an avid enthusiast of the best amusement parks, parks his pardonable car inconveniently on the side of the road. "The fairytale forest! The Python!" exclaims the part-time Brabo boisterously as he nearly lands in the moat. "I'm the record holder on the rollercoaster!" Confused as ever. Does this lunch also promise to get out of hand again?

Dom Pérignon Society

The interior of GEM. bears the signature of successful designer Piet Boon. Modern design with a monumental twist. Circular seating areas in natural hues create an intimate atmosphere. A 2.000-kilogram chandelier by Frederik Molenschot playfully cuts through the atrium like a battleship. We note an open kitchen with a chef's table, a cheese room, a wine loft, private dining, and a cabinet full of bottles of Dom Pérignon. Sommelier Amit Singh generously pours a heaping glass of 2015. A strong start. In fact, Soenil has just been accepted as a member of the worldwide Dom Pérignon Society, the only chef in the Netherlands. Quite exclusive, indeed. De Gooijer also wants to join: "I'm on a strict champagne diet." His chances seem slim. The dinners are served with knife and fork, so that will be difficult.

With the brand new Grand Hotel, we want to tap into the higher segment, also with our fine dining restaurant Mystique.

Royal laugher

We sit down at the table. Nicole is looking forward to it. "I'm already deeply impressed. What a beautiful place," she says. Autumn colors filter in generously through the window. Completely delighted, we start with a tartelette of smoked, brunoise-cut celeriac with a Madame Jeannette foam and bright flowers from our own garden. "Crispy yet crunchy," says Rijk. "A real treat," mumbles Nicole. What follows is a trio of finger foods: oyster Gillardeau with Tomasu soy sauce, sweet and sour cucumber, and jalapeño chutney; a Parmesan ball filled with tomato chutney and coriander cream; toast with crispy shrimp and baby peach and lime cream. As a partially educated provincial with no background whatsoever, Rijk greedily devours the trio of amuse-bouches. Nicole tastes attentively: "Fresh, fresh, and tender. That bite is wonderful! I'm really enjoying this. My taste buds are on edge." A woman with taste, that's for sure. Plus: a generous laugh that will tickle our ears frequently for the rest of the afternoon.

Daredevil

Nicole has good news about Efteling: for a few months now, discerning guests can move into the brand-new Grand Hotel, which promises a magnificent stay in a residence full of grandeur and wonderful atmosphere. "With this luxurious hotel, we want to tap into the upper segment, as well as our fine dining restaurant, Mystique," Nicole explains. "We offer a unique accommodation with 140 rooms in a prominent location in the park." After 27 years, Efteling has become a part of her life. In various commercial roles, she has come to know this wonderful company like a handbag. "Work and private life overlap. I don't mind that. My children have been here countless times. They were also there for the trial sleepover at the Grand Hotel. Even though I work here and look at everything with a very critical eye, I seriously enjoy it. I go on everything, even the Baron 1898, our fastest roller coaster with a top speed of 90 km/h. It can't be too rough for me. I always go on all the roller coasters, everywhere, and scream my lungs out." A real daredevil So. Rijk shakes his head. "I'd shit myself. It happened." But then. Three shore crabs parade jauntily onto the table. Table hostess Marcia reveals they're crab bisque crackers with Surinamese remoulade topped with seaweed powder. Fragile yet delicate works of art that we devour in one bite. Rijk wonders in despair who jigsawed these crabs. We're guessing they're jigsaws.

Gold GEM embroidery

Nicole continues to talk about her professional life. Efteling is a natural wonderland, with its famous theme park, the Efteling Wonder Hotel, the Bosrijk and Loonsche Land holiday parks, Villa Pardoes for families with seriously ill children, a theater for a thousand guests, numerous events, and now the new Efteling Grand Hotel. With over 5 million visitors annually, over 3.500 employees, over 100.000 season ticket holders, and a turnover of over 300 million euros, Efteling is showing impressive figures. And we're celebrating with a white chocolate bonbon filled with beetroot gazpacho from their own garden. It has to be eaten in one go, or a red flush will follow. Rijk is stubborn, takes a bite, and… yes, he's completely covered. He vigorously rubs the stain on his shirt with his napkin. Nicole can't help laughing. Hopeless, she sees me thinking. Now he's even started picking the gold GEM embroidery off the napkin. Things are still a bit rough with our friend. But hey, you want to give a guy like that an outing.

The hand of Buddha

Sommelier Amit is also in the mood and treats us to a goblet of Rudi Pichler's Weissenkirchner Achleithen, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2015. Rijk is allowed to taste: "Tertiary fruit, complex aromas, beautiful maturation. Oily notes." Well spottedI'd say, because this glass pairs perfectly with Balfegó's akami tuna tartare and the table-seared toro. Seared on the outside, soft and creamy on the inside. Finished with teriyaki, radish, seaweed vinaigrette, egg yolk cream, and Buddha's hand, a hint of citrus. side dishChawanmushi with Oscietra caviar. A truly beautiful concept and a melting potion on everyone's tongue. "Nosily," murmurs Rijk. "Impressive," says Nicole. And that's exactly what it is: absolutely top-notch. "The story, the preparation, the presentation—I'll never be able to forget it."

Entertainment guaranteed

This also applies to the swimming monkfish that Soenil carves at the table. Table-side preparations are a strong suit anyway. They seem to be popping up again in the better restaurants these days. Think flambéing, filleting, steak tartare, and of course, the duck press for a classic top sauce. Entertainment guaranteed. The perfectly cooked piece of seafood comes with vadouvan—Soenil's favorite spice blend of Indian and French spices—carrot and tandoori, kohlrabi, carrot crème and chutney, cockles, and mussels, and a beurre blanc. Nicole is speechless. A distinctive flavor, she says, a real treat! Rijk gets to taste the wine: Chassagne-Montrachet from Domaine Thomas Morey 2022: "Exuberant, full nose, bright on the palate, fresh pear and apricot. Leans loosely against a young oak tree." Nicole looks up in surprise. How does a guy like Rijk know all that? Latent talents, someone explains. Talk about talent. Nicole usually sits at the top-level conference table with only men. “Luckily, I can always be myself there. With a little humor and love, you can get by. I always have a very positive outlook. Just like with this lunch. I was really looking forward to it. And with you at the table, it's incredibly pleasant. Especially in a fantastic restaurant like GEM.”

Great guide

For the first time this year, Efteling is exhibiting at the MASTERS EXPO at the RAI. A smart move if you want to tap into a specific audience that's happy to spend a little more on a hotel and its amenities. "For our Grand Hotel, for example," explains Nicole. "Our core target group is families with children up to twelve years old, in addition to the couples who choose our haute cuisine restaurant, Mystique. Many people come, with or without children, often with fond memories of magical moments. And when we have something new, it's a huge success. Around 80.000 people have already registered for the Grand Hotel through our newsletter. People are clearly eager for something new." Just like us, now that a fried langoustine is being served, with tamarind gel, sweet and sour, pumpkin flan, langoustine foam with spices and citrus. Here again, a beautiful composition and a wine that rings like a bell: Château de la Gardine, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Générations Marie Léoncie Vieilles Vignes 2022. A wonderful accompaniment to such a sumptuous dish, sparkling golden yellow with aromas of mango, pear, honeysuckle, vanilla custard, and brioche. Richly enlivened: "Rich in flavor, salty on the uvula, a touch of acidity, a darny finish." And so, our ever-surprising socialite leads us from wine to wine.

Samurai swords

Meanwhile, Marcia has conjured up a dazzling set of Japanese Ryusen steak knives. The absolute best in the world of steel chef's knives. Exceptionally sharp, these handmade masterpieces, originally by two brothers who primarily forged samurai swords. Now we're going to tackle a wild duck with them. Prepared on the carcass, lacquered with honey, coriander seeds, fennel, cardamom, and caraway, dry-aged beetroot, sweet and sour beetroot, and smoked turnip cream. Side dish: stuffed roti, doksa masala sauce with long beans, potatoes, and doksa masala. Another seriously beautiful dish that truly shines with a Super Tuscan like Le Serre Nuove 2014 from top-tier Tenuta dell'Ornellaia. Rijk has his tasting notes ready: "Luxury wine, intense mouthfeel, leather, herbs, and fresh tobacco." Stunned by such a delicate nose, we delve a little deeper into Efteling. "It's all about the magic," says Nicole, "that people are amazed by us. That's what made us great. On the other hand, we always seek balance, because we're also a revenue model. And we want to be there as an independent company for generations to come." Meanwhile, the duck has found its final resting place with honor.

Unique cooking style

And so we continue to reminisce about Efteling and all it brought Nicole. But we must move forward, because a foie gras errine arrives with tableted dark chocolate, plum compote, apricot and nougatine foam, and markoesa vinaigrette accompanied by a Pinot Noir from Domaine André et Mireille Tissot. Here, too, we can enjoy Soenil's magic without pause. We conclude with Dawet, the Surinamese version of the Indonesian drink cendol, this time with coconut mousse, lemongrass, lime leaves, red fernandes ice cream, and masala chai panna cotta with orange compote. Thus, for an afternoon, we were taken on a journey between Suriname and La Douce France in an atlas of wandering flavors. A true sensation for us mere mortals. With GEM., Soenil and his wife Annu have realized their dream. After just a few months, they've already reached the top of the Dutch gastronomic scene—that's exceptional. With his unique cooking style and a touch of Brabant, culinary star Soenil stands out. The trip to Gemert is definitely worth it. And Nicole? "I'm so happy here." Rijk has also found inspiration. He quickly rushes outside: "I have to book a course... knife throwing for beginners."