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New hotspot in town: Toet
Amsterdam has a new culinary hotspot: Toet, from the makers of Troef.
Amsterdam has a new culinary hotspot: Toet, from the creators of Troef. But can this initiative match the success of their first establishment? Or will Toet even become the capital's new culinary highlight? One thing is certain: expectations are sky-high.
MASTERS was one of the very first guests to join us at Toet, the brand-new second restaurant from the men behind Troef: Niels Leijssenaar, Roderick Kunst, Willem Alberts, and Raymond Plat. Their successful restaurant in the Weesperzijde neighborhood has since built a solid reputation. Upon entering, it's immediately clear that Toet and Troef have one thing in common: that infectious vibe—exciting commotion, clinking glasses, tables filled with laughter, and servers who approach you like a good friend. Not stiff, but sharp. When the bottle comes around again, a hand on your shoulder and: "Shall I refill it? You know what? I'll just leave it with you." That's right. Friendly and attentive.
Toet is located on Europaplein in Amsterdam-Zuid, in the former location of Restaurant Toetanchamon. But nothing remains of its pharaonic atmosphere. The building was stripped bare, from the sewers to the wiring, and rebuilt. The new name came about more or less by chance. "Toet was just the working name at first," says Niels. "Then all sorts of complicated options came along. But Toet... it just rings a bell. Just like Troef." The Egyptian cuisine has given way to an Italian-Mediterranean signature, which sets Toet apart from Troef's French roots. The level is just as high, as is the threshold: no stiffness, but casual fine dining: refinement without feeling formal. Or as Roderick aptly puts it: "The look and feel that Sergio Herman created at La Pristine."
There's room for around 60 covers, and with the private dining area upstairs, that number rises to 76. Even during the trial period, the open kitchen, staffed by a team of about ten, looked like a well-oiled machine. From mise en place to delivery, everything ran smoothly. Dishes only appeared on the table after a new glass of matching wine had been poured. The pairings were exceptional. Match after match after match. We opened the evening with bubbles and bites: Parma ham with rosemary oil, a BBQ tomato with strawberry and Thai basil, and grissini with mortadella, pistachio, and anchovy cream (that last one... we seriously wanted a whole plate of it). And then there was the appetizer. It was sea bass carpaccio, with a fresh green pepper vinaigrette, jalapeño, lovage mayonnaise, and, as a finishing touch, grated dried fish roe. Next to it, a surprisingly smooth Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2024 from Domaine Henri Bourgeois. Our taste buds can't believe their mouths... That this exists!
A special menu has been created for this occasion; normally, you dine à la carte here. The entrée: Hollandse fles (North Sea squid) with a lemongrass sauce, mussels, shells, and sweetbreads. Not your typical dish, and with offal as an ingredient, certainly not a crowd-pleaser on paper. But on the plate, magic unfolds. The accompanying Bourgogne Chardonnay 2023 from Domaine Louis Moreau completes the picture. Then comes the main course, Bistecca dell'Onglet: succulent tenderloin with Blu di Capra foam, a deep beef jus, and radicchio rosso, accompanied by a fine glass of Rioja Altún 2022. A misunderstanding looms here: the meatless option we requested apparently fell through on this busy evening. But how this is resolved speaks volumes about the flexibility and creativity of the kitchen. Within minutes, an improvised version of red mullet with lobster bisque appears on the table. And that's not a quick fix… It's divine!
We finished with a tiramisu with feuilletine (for a crunchy twist) and… green olives. Surprising. And delicious. Over coffee, accompanied by profiteroles filled with amaretto and vanilla, the conclusion was quickly reached: Toet is a treat for anyone with taste.
