Nelson Tanate: "De Librije is my life"

Childhood and First Steps You grew up in a Moluccan family where food and gathering were central. How does that background influence your cooking style today? "It's certainly influenced the way I cook, but it's primarily the foundation of how we view gastronomy. In Moluccan families, […]

Youth and the first steps

You grew up in a Moluccan family where food and gatherings were central. How does that background influence your cooking style today?

That's certainly influenced the way I cook, but it's primarily the foundation of how we view gastronomy. In Moluccan families, everyone is welcome and there's always plenty to eat. That warm and welcoming atmosphere typifies my approach to life, even as a chef. At De Librije, I sometimes delve into my roots, for example, by using certain spices, but that's an exception. We serve Dutch cuisine and are proud of Dutch products.

When did you become active in the kitchen at home?

I was always drawn to it, but it wasn't until I was about twelve or thirteen that I started experimenting in the kitchen myself. And like my brothers, I started working in the bakery one day a week—cleaning and helping with packing. I never really thought: this is what I'm going to do later. But when I had to choose a direction at sixteen, I leaned towards Hotel Management School. Partly because it's a nice, broad program that allowed me to go in all directions. In the first year, I had to do an internship. I found a place at Willem and Kitty Dankers' Dorset Mansion House in Borne. They cooked so beautifully there, and they made everything themselves. The spark was ignited: I fell in love with cooking.

Your next internship was De Librije. How did that go?

"There was a chef there who had previously worked in Dorset. He said to me, 'You have talent. What do you want to do with it?' Well, I wanted to become the very best. 'Then you can do two things,' he continued. 'Either you gradually go from a one-star restaurant to a two-star one to a three-star one. Or you go straight to an internship at a three-star restaurant, then you'll know where you need to grow.' I liked the latter. He arranged for me to shadow De Librije for a day. A week beforehand, I'd taken the train to Zwolle and walked from the station to De Librije to see how long it would take me – I wanted to be there on time. The day I went there was also the day Jonnie and Thérèse returned from vacation. It was incredibly busy; everyone was running around. I didn't know anyone could work so hard. If I could learn this, that would be wonderful. From the very first moment, I was incredibly impressed."

Apparently they were also impressed with you, because you were offered a six-month internship.

After that six months, the Hotel Management School officially required me to do an internship elsewhere, at the front of house. But I was incredibly happy there and didn't want to leave at all. The teachers also recognized this as a unique opportunity. After careful consideration, they decided I could stay at De Librije. It was great that the school was so flexible. After that second internship, head chef Maik Kuijpers told me to stay. Initially, I was mainly in contact with him, but the longer I stayed, the better I got to know Jonnie and Thérèse.

Professional growth

How did the connection with Jonnie and Thérèse grow from intern to partnership?

Back then, Jonnie also spent a lot of time in the kitchen, often preparing fish. He was incredibly good at reading people and knew what you needed to grow and develop, and you got that. He gave you his trust. Eventually, we discovered we were secretly very similar. Especially in our way of interacting with people: leadership without shouting, attention to your people... That's what he valued, and what I take for granted as well.

You've always stayed at De Librije. Did you ever consider an apprenticeship with other top chefs?

"Oh, so often, two or three times a month, especially in the beginning. You're young, leaving home for the first time, and then you're working at such a high level right away... You don't know anything yet, and you're pushed pretty hard to keep up with that fast pace. So yes, I did consider looking elsewhere. But every year, I got a new challenge. I worked my way through every department in the kitchen. And I climbed the hierarchy."

You became a chef at 27. What was it like to lead?

In the preceding years, I'd spent a lot of time observing how others did things. I picked out the things that worked and created my own style. The most important thing, in my opinion, is to earn respect by always working hard. I'm a collaborative manager who leads by example, guides the boys and girls in their growth, and takes the time for them. Always from a calm and supportive perspective.

How would you describe your development as a chef over the years?

I'm still growing and getting better every day. This is mainly because I'm open to improvement and keep challenging myself. Here, it's all about the smallest details, like timing or communication. Twenty-five guys and girls work here, and they're all different. I don't believe there's a single management style, but that you have to adapt your style to everyone.

What was the contact with Jonnie like once you became chef?

Maik was his chef for thirteen years before me, and Sidney Schutte for ten. These two guys had worked closely with him for a long time and built this place together. So it was quite a challenge when I was suddenly put in charge. Maik said, "You're still young, but I'm sure you've got what it takes. Just go for it." And I did. I usually chatted with Jonnie when we were done in the evening and the guys were finishing up. "Come on, let's talk about the day," he'd say. Then we'd sit around the herb table for an hour. Sometimes, we needed only a few words and just enjoyed a nice glass of wine. But more often, we had long sessions about strategy, new dishes, innovation, the team... By talking about it, we always came up with some great things.

So new dishes often come into being in the evening over a glass of wine?

Very often, yes. But also in the mornings after we'd slept on it. Jonnie would come into the kitchen, his hair still a mess: 'I know, this is how we have to do it.' Then we'd involve sous-chef Noah Wynants, and we'd get started. Developing a new dish is quite a process, because a new challenge always presents itself.

Which dish are you most proud of because it has your signature on it?

There are, of course, so many beautiful dishes… But this one was perhaps my favorite—and I wasn't even a chef yet. It's a langoustine dish with a bean juice. A true classic. But Jonnie didn't think it was perfect. I had an idea of ​​what was missing and started working on it. There's a classic Moluccan dish called sajoer boontjes: stewed string beans simmered with galangal and Indian ginger—exactly what the juice was missing. It also lacked depth and spiciness. So I came up with a bumbu cream, a concentrated mix of freshly ground spices and herbs. I mixed that cream with a galangal oil and the bean juice. And then it was perfect. Jonnie was impressed. I think that's also the moment he thought: I have to keep an eye on this guy.

You've been an SVH Master Chef since last year. How does that title change the way you work?

Absolutely nothing. I didn't do it for myself, I mainly did it to serve as an example for the next generation who want to continue developing. Most chefs who hold this title aren't the youngest anymore. That's not surprising, because one of the requirements for obtaining it is that you have to work at a high level—one, two, or three Michelin stars—for at least ten years, and be ultimately responsible for more than half of that time, so truly the chef of the restaurant. I'm an exception because I started at a young age. I wanted to show that it can indeed be a platform for younger generations as well.

What new technologies fascinate you most at the moment?

"In terms of techniques, everything has pretty much been thought out. What fascinates me most is the precision and discipline involved in Asian cuisine. I love going there, but of course, I don't have much time."

Have you ever been to the Moluccas?

No, no... I'm a little worried it'll be a disappointment. I've been told this is the promised land, that you'll feel right at home the moment you arrive. But I've also read about the other side. And I don't want to disrupt the picture I have in my head. So it hasn't happened yet.

How do you find the balance between innovation and tradition, for example in classics like pike-perch or langoustine?

We believe innovation is very important; we're always thinking about new applications. But tradition is also important. Our menu features a Librije menu and a vegetable menu, along with six classics from the past thirty years, including pike-perch, époisse with rabbit kidneys, and sweetbreads. Over the past few years, I'd occasionally ask Jonnie if we should still serve those classics, because as a chef, you always want to create new and innovative dishes. He'd reply, "The whole world comes to eat here. And they want to try your signature dishes." Now that Jonnie is gone, those classics are completely indispensable.

Over the past few years, I'd sometimes ask Jonnie if we should still be serving those classics. He'd reply, "The whole world comes here to eat. And they want to try your signature dishes." Now that Jonnie's gone, those classics are completely indispensable.

The loss of Jonnie

Who told you that he was no longer there?

I was on vacation in Spain when Thérèse called me in the middle of the night. It was around two or three o'clock—I hadn't heard her. Shortly after, she sent a message: 'Call me back, things aren't going well here.' As soon as I read that, I called immediately. Isabelle answered. 'Daddy's not doing well.' Jonnie had been admitted to the hospital that evening. At first, things seemed okay, but that changed completely that evening. Jonnie died that afternoon. Jimmie was still in Zwolle; everything was being done to get him to Bonaire. I immediately returned to the Netherlands and gathered everyone at the restaurant. Centaur, Vincent Wensink's company, received the press and secured the restaurant so no one could get in.

How did you get through this as a team?

By talking a lot, we were able to find solace in each other. In the beginning, there was, of course, a lot of sadness and disbelief. If anyone deserved to slow down and enjoy life after all the hard work, it was Jonnie. He had already taken the steps to do that over the past two or three years: he was letting go more and more, going to Bonaire more often… It's so unfair! And I found that very difficult. I quickly shifted into work mode. We're all going for it together and making Jonnie proud. That was the transition for me. Maybe that's not the best way to process things, but it works.

You say Jonnie's spirit is still present. When do you feel that most strongly?

"When I have to make difficult decisions, I used to ask Jonnie for advice. 'Do you have a minute? How should we do this?' Jonnie was my sounding board. He always appreciated that I'd thought about it myself. Nine times out of ten, he'd say, 'If it's right for you, then we'll do it this way.'"

How do you do that?

I still ask him. I ask those questions in my head. If I have any doubts, I won't do it; if it feels right, I will. Those are also the moments when I feel him most.

What is your fondest memory of him?

I have a nine-year-old daughter, with whom Jonnie had a very special bond. He saw her as his own granddaughter. I thought that was so beautiful! Almost every year, we went to Bonaire or Curaçao with our families. Jonnie always created a good atmosphere and took my daughter aside to play a game or just have a little fun. Those are some of the fondest memories.

How would you describe your relationship?

In my speech at the funeral, I said that Jonnie was more than just a boss. He was, at the right moments, like a father, like a grandfather, like a cousin with the right advice, like a friend who gives a hug… He was everything.

Isabelle and Jimmie also work in the business. How do you support them?

That's quite difficult. Jimmie and Isabelle are completely different people. What works for one doesn't necessarily work for the other. I try to guide them as best I can, but above all, I give them their own space. There's a lot of pressure, especially from outside. Just look at the media attention they get. And they also unconsciously put some pressure on themselves because they want to make their father proud. I give them time to process everything and settle back into our organization. For example, Jimmie now only works two days a week at De Librije. He finds it very difficult to be here because his entire childhood, his entire growing up, took place here – his father was always here in the business. Isabelle, on the other hand, is here four days a week.

How did Jonnie's death change your outlook on life?

Well, I don't really have a different outlook on life, but what I do know is this: I'm not going to wait until I'm sixty to enjoy life. And he always taught me that. Jonnie and Thérèse have faced many challenges. Like the hotel renovation, which was budgeted at €5,6 million and ended up costing €13 million. Those were very heavy blows, and we often talked about them. 'Listen,' Jonnie said, 'you're going to join the business now, you're going to become a shareholder. Make sure you do it right, that you've got your ducks in a row by the time you're fifty.' That's exactly what I intend to do.

Continuity of De Librije

Your succession was prepared. How essential has that proven to be in practice now?

Well, in that sense, we were kind of prepared for this moment. That's been essential for what we're doing now. We were ready, we're ready. We know exactly what we need to do. And it feels good, because this plan has been discussed with him.
Where do you draw the line between preserving Jonnie's signature and developing your own voice?
Of course, it's not just now that I'm developing my own voice and signature style. That's been underway for the past five or six years. Step by step, I was pushed more to the forefront. I did the interviews, I attended awards ceremonies... It all happened very naturally. De Librije isn't going to change. Because it's been part of my life for fifteen years. De Librije is my life.

Reservations have increased by 200 percent. What do you think is behind this? Is it a sign of sympathy, or do guests want to see if anything has changed?

I think it's a combination of both. On the one hand, people are incredibly curious. Has anything changed? But what we especially notice from our guests is that they're incredibly supportive. And they appreciate how quickly we kept things going. Because on a Friday, we dropped Jonnie off, and the following Wednesday we were back open. And we were absolutely packed again. We didn't cancel any guests, nothing... Looking back on it now, it was really nice for us. It's a bit of a distraction. And everything we do is, of course, very hard on Jonnie. He wouldn't have wanted it any other way.

Did you notice that the guests might not have known what attitude to adopt?

"Yes, you definitely saw that. Should I offer my condolences to the staff? Should I ask how Thérèse is doing? We agreed that this can be very confronting, especially for the waitstaff. Several times, a server burst into tears at the table. But that's okay; we're all human. Eventually, things got better, and we learned from it. Every table now has a lovely card with a personal message from Thérèse. It says she appreciates that the guests keep coming and that she's doing a little better every day. And that's true; Thérèse is incredibly strong. She's back working on the table service every day. And last summer, she took the children to Bonaire to celebrate. There are times when she can have a good laugh again."

I can imagine that keeping the three stars gave a boost.

"Mega, yes. That gives us a certain kind of validation. That we're being noticed, and that it's also clear that we're all going for it. The chief inspector told me he's received a huge number of reports recently. So they've been checking regularly, even from Paris. Retaining the three stars confirms that our organization is strong and that you can still taste Jonnie's soul in the dishes and the atmosphere. We couldn't have received a better compliment."

Which other restaurant in the Netherlands do you think qualifies for a third star?

"Brut172 by Hans van Wolde and De Nieuwe Winkel by Emile van der Staak are, in my opinion, the top contenders for three stars. Over the past two years, I've dined in countless restaurants around the world, including many with three stars. Comparing the Netherlands to other surrounding countries, we truly have an incredibly high standard. It would be well-deserved if we could add a few more two- and three-star restaurants."

A week before the Michelin awards ceremony, there was another celebration: you won The Best Chef Award in Milan. This means you can call yourself one of the best chefs in the world. Did you see it coming?

No, not at all. It's based on voters who eat all over the world, from foodies to chefs themselves. They rank the ten best chefs in the world. To win The Best Chef Award, a prize in the form of three knives, at least 80 percent have to vote for you. I had no idea! They paid tribute to Jonnie—I thought that's why I was invited. That tribute was right at the beginning. A very beautiful moment. In the front row, a chair was left empty: it was symbolic of Jonnie. Everyone clapped for him—goosebumps. Then the presentation of the knives began. A few Dutch chefs received one knife. Then came the presentation of two knives; the Netherlands wasn't among them. And finally, the winners of three knives were announced. On a spinning globe, a country turned gold each time. Boom, Japan, three knives… Boom, India… Boom, Denmark… I said to Dennis Huwaë van Daalder: 'Come on, let's get some champagne before the whole room...' "It's running out." But suddenly Belgium turned gold: Tim Boury won. I was a bit shocked: that's so close. And then… Boom, the Netherlands! I thought: what the fuck? And sure enough, a big photo of me: 'Nelson Tanate, three knives.' That was bizarre. I didn't know what was happening. I was called up on stage with all the other chefs who had won three knives. Suddenly, you're standing among all those greats. A beautiful moment. Especially because it's largely a recognition from the chefs. That's pretty special."

You're the second Dutch person to ever win this award. Only Jonnie came before you.

"That makes it even more special. I can tell you: the champagne tasted delicious afterward. It went down in one go."

Future and legacy

You have three stars, three knives, you are an SVH Master Chef… What do you still want to achieve?

"Maintaining this level. And I see it as a great stepping stone to put the Netherlands on the map, to show what we can do."

In today's world, we always want everything as quickly as possible. But you have to be patient. You have to invest in your future and keep practicing and repeating – that's the only way to improve.

You also contribute to this with your role in the Cas Spijkers Academy.

"Yes, definitely. Jonnie and I wanted to commit ourselves to the next generations, to ensure that sufficient quality continues to be available. Instead of starting our own program, we decided to support the Cas Spijkers Academy. It's a truly excellent program. I gave a few demonstrations to students at the Almelo, Breda, and Nijmegen locations. It was so successful that Cees Helder, who headed the academy, nominated me to the board as their successor. Jonnie and I considered it a tremendous honor and immediately said yes, but we'll do it as a Librije team. We handle all the castings and guide the students through the exams. We take them to our suppliers and administer the transition tests and exams. And that's paying off. For example, every year I offer two or three students from the Cas Spijkers Academy a year-long internship. They don't have to be masters of the art yet—I can teach them everything. The most important thing is that they are team players. That's the only way to build a team."

Jonnie always said: be patient. Do you also teach that to your younger team members?

Absolutely. In today's world, we always want everything as quickly as possible. But you have to be patient. You have to invest in your future and keep practicing and repeating – that's the only way to improve. So you just have to work very hard, have a lot of passion for this craft, and a lot of patience to ultimately become really good.

What human lessons from Jonnie do you carry out every day?

Whether it's the chef, an intern, the dishwasher, or a cleaner, I treat everyone with respect. Just like Jonnie did. Treat others the way you'd like to be treated.

Where do you see De Librije in five years?

I want De Librije as a restaurant and the Netherlands as a gastronomic nation to become even better known worldwide. The Netherlands deserves to be seen as a culinary paradise, because we have so much to offer. Pure flavors, innovative techniques, and absolute hospitality, as gastronomy is meant to be. We're almost there; in five years, I really hope to be there!