Taste
Check in with Ivo Weyel
Armed with unparalleled knowledge of where to book the most refined rooms and suites, Ivo reveals two unique destinations. From a luxurious escape along the enchanting Bosporus to a luxury hotel with a royal touch.
Text: Ivo Weyel
FAWLTY TOWER DELUXE
King Charles I of Portugal had such a fine name that I cannot resist writing it down: Charles Ferdinand Louis Mary Victor Michael Raphael Gabriel Gonzaga Xavier Francis of Assisi Joseph Simon of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha and Braganza. He was Portugal's second-to-last king, known for his intelligence, extramarital affairs and extravagance, and was shot dead in 1908. By then he had nearly emptied the treasury, and we have him to thank for the nineteenth-century Bussaco Palace Hotel, a hysterical folly of a castle he built as a hunting lodge and which, after the death of his son (the last king), was transformed into a (then) luxury hotel. It still has five stars, with the note that every room has central heating and a telephone. That tells you something about when the last renovation took place, around the nineteen-seventies I would guess. On the other hand, the bedding displays imposing golden coats of arms embroidered by hand, and there is a sign on the dressing table stating it is an authentic art deco piece of furniture. The staff dates from roughly the same period, so it may take a while before your cocktail is ready (shaking is quite difficult at that age), but their eccentricity (our waiter smelled wonderfully of Chanel No. 5, "the last drop from my late mother's bottle", he explained with a welling tear) fits perfectly here. A stay (and the truly incredible impressive wine list) is an experience never to forget. Everything is still authentic, the gigantic tile panels, the stained glass, the marble, the countless styles mixed together, the fantastic barrel-vaulted galleries where one can chat on nineteenth-century wicker chairs, where here and there a loose reed stem pricks your bottom. And then the park around it where the king went hunting, the arboretum, the adjoining monastery, the water features and rose arbours, the fountains and endless walking routes past thickly moss-covered statues of Mary. And I have not yet mentioned the faded black-and-white photographs on the walls showing illustrious hotel guests, including here and there a discordant note (Prime Minister and dictator Salazar). A hotel not only to stay in but above all to experience.
NEW ISTANBUL
Every major city reinvents itself from time to time. A forgotten, neglected neighbourhood suddenly becomes the place to be. It costs a pretty penny (over two billion in this case) but you get something for it: the new Karaköy, a strip directly on the Bosporus near Galata Tower, now renamed Galataport. It is packed with restaurants and cafés, there is the brand new Istanbul Modern museum by Renzo Piano (in a former warehouse) and a spectacular underground cruise terminal that transforms into a walking promenade when no ship is docked. As the centrepiece stands the new Peninsula hotel, housed in three historic buildings with a striking architectural extension, or rather façade, positioned within the embrace of the historic facades and opening onto the tree-lined gardens overlooking the Bosporus. A hotel that has everything and one you actually don't want to leave to explore the city. The modern interiors are steeped in references to the surrounding mosques and Turkish culture, a successful blend. Even the enormous indoor pool evokes a mosque. And what about the hint of mother-of-pearl woven into the marble of the bathrooms. It is expensive, of course. Expect a starting price of around 1,500 euros for a room with river view (a must here, in my opinion) without breakfast, but it is worth every penny. A more beautiful hotel and better location does not exist in Istanbul. So go there, and start your journey in style in the business class of Turkish Airlines, where they really know how to cook ("Would you like your meat rare? Medium? And the lentil soup mild or spicy?") and you get a cosy flickering battery-powered candle on your tray table. Named Best Business Class Catering of 2023 by Skytrax. A city trip was rarely this enjoyable and luxurious.
Peninsula.com | Turkishairlines.com
MASTERS Magazine
Curious about the rest of Ivo's hotspots? You will want this edition of MASTERS. A milestone in print, boundaries pushed. Innovative. Surprising. Stunning. Featuring an extraordinary guest editor. An interview with the man who in 2015 already pointed out gaps in Ajax's board of directors that have now come to light. Merijn Zeeman explains how Jumbo-Visma has developed into a top sports company. Quoteman Paul van Riessen calculates how much you need to never have to work again. Sabine Riezebos explains what sets Bernardus apart from other golf courses. A look at the Stratos Yacht shipyard, where the ultimate boat for carefree sailing is being built. And more including the rise of robots (where is the sex robot?), Fake News and, exclusive to MASTERS: the 'new Doutzen Kroes'.
