Business Lunch: Frits Barend

In the Business Lunch series, Floris Kappelle and his partner Rijk de Gooijer sit down with a renowned entrepreneur. Anecdotes and success stories interspersed with the clinking of glasses and the skewering of forks. In this episode, Frits Barend puts the napkin on his lap. "We need to cherish what we have. We need to allow each other to thrive and be more tolerant."

Right across from the RAI Amsterdam Convention Center, nestled in the armpit of the ring road, shines a new jewel in the crown of the Michelin-starred empire: Restaurant Showw*. Indeed, with a double "W" because they love a show here. And so do we. As true Amsterdammers, we're celebrating Amsterdam's 750th birthday this year, so the choice was easy. This time, we're sharing the table with a true Amsterdammer: Frits Barend, known as a journalist, talk show host, opinionated man, and much more. Regular sidekick Rijk de Gooijer is a bit late due to a clay ashtray-making course that has gotten out of hand. However, we're not going to wait for the Gooi society star and obediently allow host Lendl Mijnhijmer to seat us at his best table. A delicious lunch awaits us.

Addicted to cycling

To celebrate Johan Cruyff's birthday, we'll start with a spicy fizzy drink from Domaine Alexandre Bonnet. Frits was good friends with the football legend and was invited to act as an ambassador for his Foundation from day one. The fit retiree is still active. "I got hooked on cycling. I love racing with some younger guys. And as someone over 60, I can use some reinforcements. So, an e-bike! That works really well when I'm chatting with the others on 100-kilometer rides who are working hard to keep up... ha!" That athleticism was instilled in young Frits from an early age. "My grandpa looked into his cradle, shook his head, and said: 'Oh well... as long as he's healthy.'" And he was. Growing up in the Rivierenbuurt neighborhood, football turned out to be his main activity, especially where the RAI now stands. Yet, after finishing Dongeschool, Frits ended up at Vossius Gymnasium in Amsterdam-Zuid. That's where his true life began. It was there that he met his Marijke.

Enjoy to the fullest

Chef Dorus Floris opens the revue with a crispy cylinder of potato filled with quinoa, strained yoghurt, and chicken samba, a nod to Johma's salads. But from their own garden. A fine creation that Frits devours in one go. A light sensation immediately awakens our palate. The party has begun. "I can enjoy this immensely. Whether I'm in a toss-and-turn joint in Mallorca or here in a Michelin-starred restaurant, I surrender to where I am. Besides, I'm an easy eater. My wife doesn't need to spend hours in the kitchen. I don't either!" Fortunately, Dorus and his team do, because the second amuse-bouche is on its way. An ensemble of veal cutlet, lettuce, and Thai vinaigrette. It looks like a gnome's garden with miniature palm trees adorned with veal foam. “Fantastic, I've never tasted this before,” Frits mutters, perplexed.

Romping, walking on the sidewalks and strolling

Frits still enjoys cycling through his old neighborhood. Past his parents' house on Molenbeekstraat, picking up pickled onions at De Leeuw on Vrijheidslaan, and, in the past, to Verdooner, the Jewish bakery. The 1950s were the backdrop of his youth. “We were always outside: playing in the street, romping around, on the sidewalks, and wandering around. And then riding on the back of my brother's bike to Neerlandia, where he played football. There were no showers there yet; you had to fill milk bottles with water. You emptied them into a bin, and that was your shower. I also played for the first team there and was known as the champion of the league. I could keep a ball up a hundred times, maybe even now. It did give you a sore neck. I was selected for the Amsterdam national team, but my mother objected. I forged her signature on a form for permission to participate in a four-city tournament. That's how my football career was nipped in the bud. She later regretted it.” We get a call from De Gooijer: he's locked in a men's sauna with a broken door handle. Repairman on the way. He'll be there a little later.

The fate of the star chef

Meanwhile, two complete flower arrangements have been placed. After a bit of searching, we find a portobello mushroom on a stick dressed as a lollipop. It turns out to be gently cooked with salla herbs, prawn crackers, and wasabi. Frits's oohs and aahs are in full swing. "How did you come up with that... incredible!" If this isn't a show, we don't know what is. Frits nibbles enthusiastically on his stick. "Delicious again." Next up is Chef Dorus's signature dish: a fresh herb emulsion of dill, tarragon, and chervil, with asparagus as a seasonal topping, along with some cauliflower, sea fennel, salty herbs, and crispy beetroot. A roll is included for wiping down the dish. The Perpignan wine complements the dish beautifully. We eagerly devour this surprising dish. "So beautiful...it's actually a shame to eat this. It's strange, a whole kitchen crew spends hours creating these works of art, and we gobble them down in no time." Well, that's the fate of a star chef. Look, taste, swallow. And your dish is gone. These dishes should be immortalized, Frits advises.

Nozem without a moped

Time for a trip to the Loire. Everyone can taste, according to Lendl. So he only reveals what was in the glass after each dish. A briny Chenin Blanc, somewhat complex but calm on the nose with aromas of flint and dried Granny Smith. Intensely high on the acidity, ideal for the Hollandaise that accompanies the asparagus dish. We take a trip back in time. Frits muses casually about his student days: “I was a hoot without a moped. There were happenings at the Lieverdje on the Spui, which I found interesting. And as a Political Science student, I participated in the occupation of the Maagdenhuis. A bit of a leftist, yes, but I never saw Marx come down from the wall. You know, those terms left and right are outdated. I think more in terms of humanity and inhumanity.”

Nice day with Ajax

De Gooijer is on the line again. He accidentally got on the wrong train. Now he's taking a taxi in Gouda. He asks if we can keep a steak warm. Frits continues chatting calmly. About his time as a chip shop owner at a snack bar, and later as a journalist with Henk van Dorp at Radio Veronica. Free Netherlands en New Revue. Then came VARA and RTL 4. He became nationally known with his talk show Barend & Van Dorp which was successful for many years, culminating in the title of Broadcaster of the Year 2000. Those were golden times. These days, Frits is mainly concerned about a lack of tolerance in the city. "I feel like people wearing yarmulkes have to be careful in the city. That something like that would ever happen? Pretty sad." Fortunately, Frits' love of sports is unwavering. "I've been a fan of Ajax since I was four. When I was little, we'd have drinks at Schiller on Rembrandtplein before the match and dinner at Heck's Amsterdam afterward. That would have been a great day."

Professional slip-up

Later, as a teenager, I became a professional sneaker. If you didn't have any money, you had to sneak. A sport in itself. Under a fence, jumping over a ditch. I was the king of the sneaker. Later, Cruijff and I became friends. He was the last true Amsterdam sports rebel. In the late 1.500s, Ajax played in the Olympic Stadium for the European Cup. The players were supposed to receive 700 guilders for a win, about 20.000 euros. A total of about 60.000 guilders for all the players. So Johan went to chairman Jaap van Praag and asked him how many spectators would be there. He said 2. Income 50 million guilders. Johan asked: "And who are these people coming for? Surely not for you? I think the players should get at least XNUMX percent. This includes the coaching staff, bench players, groundskeepers, and physiotherapist." Van Praag refused: "We don't do that." To which Cruyff replied: "Well, then we'll sit in the stands and you can go play!" That's how he arranged it. That's what makes you a rebel. That's how I see Gullit as a true Amsterdammer who speaks out socially. A man with his heart in the right place. Gullit is golden."

Blob of caviar

Hora est For seafood. Nothing beats a beautiful turbot. Pan-fried and glazed with classic jus de veau. Topped with a generous dollop of caviar. Just because. And because it's so delicious with fried capers, soufflés, and a lemon sauce. Our eyes are jumping for joy, especially after a generous finish with a golden glass of Françoise André's Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Sous Frétille 2022. "Oh... man!" is all Frits can manage. It's great that he enjoys it so much. Because when we start looking for Amsterdam humor, we get dejected: it doesn't exist anymore. That you walked into a shop and had to listen to ten jokes before you were helped. And then the Amsterdam identity, which has become a marketing gimmick for tourists. There are so many new Amsterdammers, and they don't have the culture we grew up with. We're dying out. And our children are going to live elsewhere. Sometimes I do miss that atmosphere back then. But I'm not a curmudgeonly old man.

Sexy bowl full of fruit

We almost forgot: the main course. A fine piece of veal prepared on the Japanese barbecue, glazed with its own jus, surrounded by pickles and piccalilli, and a sauce of apple cider and wild garlic. A fragrant glass of Ribeira Sacra gives the dish a smooth boost. In fact, a sexy bowl full of fruit, Lendl knows. "This makes me happy," Frits reveals. "What a feast. I'm flabbergastedWhat cuisine! And what beautiful Amsterdam moments. We must cherish what we have. Allow each other to live and be more tolerant. That's my message for Amsterdam 750. I myself had thrown a party at the RAI for all my fellow Amsterdammers who are struggling.” Warm words that flow seamlessly into a piping hot soufflé with cardamom and black sesame. As a bonus, a swarm of strawberries with peanut, caramel, and yuzu. With two surprise wines, we reluctantly round off this excellent lunch. Frits mumbles something about an orgasm on his tongue as we savor the last sips. The icing on the cake is a light, white chocolate Blondie with rhubarb. Phew.

Ballet of the Waiters

Showw was awarded a Michelin star in its very first year, and rightly so. The business-like yet warm interior makes you feel like you're in New York and perfectly complements the original and technically perfect dishes. Wine-wise, you're in heaven here too: with over 800 wines, Lendl, reigning Michelin Sommelier and former Sommelier of the Year, has truly mastered it. The Ballet der Obers also scores highly with their synchronized service. Everything is launched and released simultaneously. A bit hilarious, but the national restaurant scene could certainly use a bit of showmanship. Leaving is hard for us. We want to stay! We relax on a sofa with a cigar and a glass of something delicious. But goodbyes are a no-brainer. Suddenly, Rijk de Gooijer bursts in. "Am I still on time? Is there anything left to eat?" stammers our crypto-literate, pardonable friend. And yes, he can join us for dinner right away. But Frits and your scribe are off to De Leeuw by bike to get pickles.