Eyewear comes in all shapes and sizes, but none is like Alexanian's. The handmade gold ones, inspired by watches, are unique and represent family and craftsmanship, since 1963. Unlike many an entrepreneur, founder Artur Alexanian also sees entrepreneurship through his own unique glasses: 'I have no desire to expand my business. My goal is to produce only 50 glasses a year and not one more.' MASTERS went into conversation.

What did you do before the founding of Alexanian?

'Originally, I am Armenian. When I was fifteen I started training as a goldsmith. When I moved to the Netherlands 25 years ago, I continued my profession here. I now have more than 30 years of experience in the industry. In the early 2000s I started working with Alexanian. Because of my background as a goldsmith, my focus was naturally on jewelry making. Since I worked a lot with gemstones, I decided to take additional training. During that training, I was constantly studying stones under a microscope, which prompted me to visit the optician to have my eyes checked. That's how the concept for Alexanian was born. Glasses are actually a jewel too, but on your face. From then on, I started specializing in eyeglasses.'

Switching from jewelry to eyewear, doesn't that sound easier than done?

'I soon discovered that there was very little literature and information known about gold eyewear making. From a technical perspective, it differs significantly from creating jewelry, which was indeed a great challenge for me. The unique properties of gold, especially 18-carat gold that is naturally very soft, made developing the right attitude and technique time-consuming and strenuous. In the beginning, my clientele consisted mostly of opticians. Although I initially met the consumer's needs, I still did not feel fulfilled. I had become much more of a manager than a creative person. In 2018, I made the decision to change tack.'

Which bow?

'I said goodbye to 98% of my clients and terminated several businesses. I wanted to aim for more small scale and produce what I really wanted. My great passion is watches. So I decided to combine my passion and know-how. For example, I now make eyewear inspired by watches. In the process, the realization dawned on me that really no one needs gold glasses, given that they have been around for centuries. Therefore, I asked myself, ''Then why am I making them?'' Now I am creating something that no one knows about and no one wants, but I am building a whole new market. My motivation is 99% based on passion and 1% based on commercial interest. It's not a quick way to make money, but rather focused on the long term.''

But money has to be made, right?

'I must confess, that is why I sometimes call myself certified crazy. Recently, I had a special experience with a client in Singapore, the president of a prominent business club. Last year, he invited me to be a speaker at an event. It was an opportunity I grabbed with both hands. There I stood as a small business owner, among the greats as I shared my story of leaving my comfort zone and creating my own path where there was no established market. During my talk, I explicitly stated that I was not necessarily striving for growth. Unlike the conventional entrepreneurial mindset, I have no desire to grow my business. My goal is to produce only 50 pairs of glasses a year and not one more. Of course, this goes against many an entrepreneur's definition because growth is usually the goal. But I don't need to grow. In fact, if I grow, I will get back to where I was before and that is not what I want. I cherish the fact that I can now do what I love most.'

"Now I'm creating something no one knows about and no one wants, but building a whole new market."

Your wife and sister also work in the business, right?

'True, my wife Lilit and sister Narin also work there; so a real family business. My wife is a medical graduate and helps with setting the gems when needed, and my sister does the laser engraving. Generally, of course, it is said that with family you should only eat and drink, not do business. However, Lilit and Narin have a lot of affinity for the industry and made a conscious decision to work in the business themselves.'

Did you get that entrepreneurial drive from home?

'No, it's not in the family, I think it has more to do with my background. Armenians are known for their skills in goldsmithing, similar to, say, Switzerland and their watchmakers. I learned the craft in Armenia. At that time, there were no manufacturers to order parts from; everything was made by hand. That was a very good learning experience for me. As for my drive, it probably came about because I come from a country with limited opportunities to advance. Armenia, of course, is former Soviet Union. Although it is different today, there are still many restrictions. In addition, I have had many setbacks in life, including in the business field. But if I fall eight times, I get up nine times.'

What typifies your customers, who are these?

'My clientele consists mainly of entrepreneurs. Probably because they see and experience a lot of the world during their travels. So they have an eye for quality and therefore appreciate the craftsmanship and uniqueness of the handmade products. Moreover, I can also count a considerable number of watch lovers and collectors among my customers, both national and international. What connects my customers goes beyond having a certain income. It is a small and niche community in which personality and the product itself play a decisive role. It takes investment in yourself and your connections to be accepted within this community. But once in, trust is quickly built, especially when my product, the glasses, serve as a reference. It really is a unique and dedicated customer base.'

The sun does not often shine in our cold little chilly country, are there nevertheless customers in the Netherlands?

'In 2019, I joined forces with Panis Eyewear in Oisterwijk. Part of the store has been converted into a department for Alexanian. As such, this is the only one in the world. Although they also sold gold glasses before 2019, there was still a significant price difference between an Alexanian and the other brands. It was a different segment. A segment we didn't know here in the Netherlands at the time. Yet they had the courage to step in. Panis Eyewear has shown that there is therefore definitely demand in the Netherlands.'

So you often invest in the relationship for the long term, do you think you will ever pass the baton?

'As an entrepreneur, I am indeed more focused on the long term. If I invest in connections now, I don't expect it to pay off in three or five years. But maybe it will for the next generation. That is what I like to work on, and I hope that my children, although still small, will one day carry on the work.'