MASTERS STORIES

From yeast to glory: the vibrant history of beer brewing

In Amsterdam, beer isn't just beer: it's history in a glass, a liquid archive of rebellion and craft, of crisis and creativity. What began as a necessity—a safe alternative to murky canal water—grew into a proud tradition. From the pioneers who placed their kettles on the canals to the industrial giants, to the unconventional craft brewers of today: beer is the lifeblood of Amsterdam.

Somewhere in the late Middle Ages, when Amsterdam was still a young city slowly pushing its boundaries towards the horizon, the city dwellers embraced the art of brewing. The canal water wasn't exactly potable, so beer became a daily necessity—a safer alternative to the polluted water. Most of this beer had a modest alcohol content, barely 2%, but enough to lubricate city life. Water, the source of this golden liquid, was drawn from the Vecht River, among other places, and had to be brought by barge, through wind and weather, ice and cold. In winter, boats broke a path through the frozen surface of the Vecht—an image that still resonates centuries later in the name of café De Ysbreeker on Weesperzijde. The breweries, wise and practical, settled near the water.

In the 17th century, Amsterdam flourished as a trading city. The Golden Age was a time of plenty, and Amsterdam beers traveled on the ships of the Dutch East India Company (VOC), across the oceans, to shores the brewers themselves would never see. Many breweries specialized in ship's beer, a cure for boredom and the brackish drinking water on board. You might expect many breweries to be located on the Brouwersgracht, which takes its name from the profession. However, in 1664, only three of the then 22 breweries were located on this canal. The De Hooyberg complex, founded in 1592 and which would grow to become one of Amsterdam's largest breweries, stretched across a considerable area between the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal and the Nieuwezijds Achterburgwal, with buildings on both canals.

But wealth is fleeting, and the 18th century brought decline. The number of breweries dwindled like an empty beer barrel. Foreign beers, particularly English porters, made their debut, and the ever-curious Amsterdammers developed new tastes. Many smaller breweries could not compete and closed their doors for good. The Industrial Revolution stirred up a new wave: steam engines and technical innovations transformed the way beer was brewed. Mass production became the norm. Heineken, founded in Amsterdam in 1864 by Gerard Adriaan Heineken, played a significant role in this and became a symbol of beer innovation and global expansion. It pioneered the application of the Pasteur method to the brewing process, revolutionizing the shelf life and quality of beer. This enabled Heineken to produce a consistent product on a large scale. Furthermore, Heineken introduced cooled fermentation techniques, resulting in the production of a clearer, fresher style of beer now known as pilsner.

In Amsterdam, this doesn't lead to an increase in the number of breweries. Their numbers remain relatively low, but the scale and efficiency of production are increasing. Major players like Heineken and Amstel, founded in 1870, dominate the beer market. But beer is stubborn. History doesn't show a straight line, but a winding path of thirst, experimentation, and survival. Sometimes breweries disappear into the maelstrom of time, sometimes they return like a ghost that never found rest. And so, towards the end of the twentieth century, it slowly begins to bubble again in the city's underbelly. The craft beer movement rears its head, fueled by nostalgia and a resistance to the uniformity of the big brands. Small, independent breweries pop up, fueled by a renewed interest in local beer. This craft beer revolution, especially during the credit crisis, leads to an explosion of new microbreweries and craft breweries. Many people are losing their jobs or finding their traditional career paths are no longer secure, leading to a reassessment of personal and professional ambitions. Why have a boring job when you can brew beer? What started with a few brave pioneers exploded into a true renaissance from 2010 onwards.  

From 2010 to the present, the number of breweries in Amsterdam has risen dramatically. Fifteen years ago, there were only ten breweries active; by 2023, there will be seventy-five. But as always, the market remains dynamic. Several small breweries have since been acquired, such as Oedipus by Heineken and Brouwerij 't IJ by Duvel Moortgat. And according to Statistics Netherlands (CBS), ten breweries closed their doors last year, including De Prael in the Red Light District. Yet the city remains vibrant. Anyone exploring Amsterdam today will find a wealth of craft breweries. Each barrel carries the weight of the city—from squatters and monks to sailors and visionaries. And whether you're a fan of bock, blond, stout, or monastery beer, there's always a place to toast the past, the present, and the eternal thirst. Here's a selection of the brewers that keep the city vibrant.

Brewery 't IJ (1983)

Sometimes a revolution starts with a thirsty musician. Kaspar Peterson, a member of Door Mekaar, regularly traveled to Belgium in the 2012s. There, among abbeys and cafés, he became captivated by the brewing expertise of our southern neighbors. Because similar craft beer was rarely brewed in the Netherlands, he decided to make it himself – first in a squat, later in a former bathhouse next to the De Gooyer windmill in Amsterdam-Oost. His first beers, Zatte and Natte, hit like a sledgehammer: powerful, unpolished, genuine. The city was awakened! In 750, a second brewery opened on Zeeburgerpad, but the soul of the brewery remains where it began – in the shadow of the windmill, on a terrace always buzzing with stories and laughter. And now, in honor of Amsterdam's 7,50th anniversary, Brouwerij 't IJ is giving us a new tribute in liquid form: Mokums Overslepen IJwit. With a proud XNUMX% alcohol by volume and a generous helping of everything that makes the original IJwit so distinctive, this is a beer with a little too much of everything. A glass full of Amsterdam: quirky, a bit over the top, but always with a smile. The label is adorned with illustrations of typical Amsterdam scenes, with a nod to clichés we're all too happy to embrace. Because, like the city itself, this beer doesn't take itself too seriously, but knows exactly what it's worth.

Oedipus Brewing (2012)

Four friends, one kitchen, one dream. Sander Nederveen, Rick Nelson, Alex Mager, and Paul Brouwer brewed their first batches in an Amsterdam apartment and, with Mannenliefde, a beer with lemongrass and Szechuan pepper, made a statement: beer can be playful, unexpected, and bold. The bottles shone in bright colors, the names read like invitations to adventure: Panty, Swingers, Club Paradise. In 2015, they opened their own brewery and taproom in Amsterdam-Noord. Eight years later, Heineken acquired the brewery. But Oedipus continued to reinvent itself, and in 2024, Oedipus Craft Space opened at Schaafstraat 19 in Amsterdam-Noord, a new playground for beer and creativity.

Beer is stubborn. History shows no straight line, but a winding path of thirst, experimentation, and survival.

Poesiat & Kater (2015)

One of the few truly independent breweries with its own brewing kettles in Amsterdam. The name is no coincidence, but a tribute to two employees of what was once the largest brewery in the Netherlands: Van Vollenhoven's De Gekroonde Valk brewery. While Heineken absorbed the brewery in 1949, leaving only one beer, Van Vollenhoven's Extra Stout, the founders of Poesiat & Kater—Eymert van Manen, Jesse van Vollenhoven, Julian Alvarez, and Pieter Teepe—seized their opportunity decades later to revive the old recipes. From a former animal shelter in Amsterdam East, they now recreate the historic beers, as well as surprising craft beers like Meyer Hazy IPA and Kaintz Modern Triple. In 2021, the brewery relocated to a larger location on HJE Wenckebachweg. The tasting room remains at the same location (Polderweg 648).

Friekens Brewery (2016)

Some breweries are born from spreadsheets, others from pure rebellion. Friekens originated in a squatted former fan factory on Kadoelenweg in Amsterdam-Noord, Villa Friekens, where Sid Benson brews beer for parties and free spirits. No artificial junk, no compromise. Since the end of 2017, the brewery has been located in the NoordOogst urban agriculture project in the Tuindorp-Oostzaan neighborhood, in a former football club locker room with an adjacent beer garden, where the aroma of hops blends with that of earth and freedom. Here you drink Friekens as it was meant to be: unpolished, honest, and straight from the source.

The Converted Sister (2004)

There was a time when women didn't come here to drink, but to find forgiveness. The Converted Sisters were former sinners who started a new life in the Bethany Monastery. Now, holy water no longer flows here, but craft beer. The Lame Monk, the Blonde Barber, White Antonia—names that sound like chapters from an old monastery book. Here, on Kloveniersburgwal, beer is brewed as it once began: with patience, dedication, and a touch of mysticism.

Homeland Brewery (2015)

In 2015, festival and hospitality veterans Koen Vollaers and Joost Carlier founded this brewery in the old naval shipyard. Two years later, brewer's son Bart Maes got himself drunk by this illustrious duo, and the trio was born. As modern-day pirates, they feel completely at home in this location, where hundreds of years ago, wooden frigates were loaded with barrels of barley. Today's beers – Ketelbinkie, Zeebonk, Zwartbaard, Zeerover, Kielzog… – exude salt, adventure, and freedom. Here you can taste history, but also innovation. The brewery not only strives for the best beers but also places a high priority on sustainability. For example, the brewery runs on an electric steam generator, the beers are canned (Homeland was the first brewery in Amsterdam with its own canning line), and the high-tech Meura Mash Filter maximizes the yield of the ingredients, allowing for the creation of unique beers. This has already led to many gold and silver medals at the annual beer competition The Dutch Beer Challenge. In honor of 'Amsterdam 750 years', Homeland IEPa, the taste of Amsterdam! Made. This IPA is brewed with elm seeds, which cover the canals in spring ("spring snow"). Want to try it? You can drink it fresh from the tap at Pension Homeland, just a stone's throw away.

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