This time, Christiaan Clerx lands in Buenos Aires. Upon arrival, one quickly notices that the pace is different. The city has a European feel, combined with a distinct Latin American atmosphere. Wide boulevards, stately buildings, and cafes where people take their time. Tango and literature are part of daily life, as are long lunches and dinners that don't begin until late in the evening. Where to sleep, eat, wander, and dance?
NEIGHBORHOODS
Palermo
Creative, lively, and always on the move. Palermo Soho revolves around boutiques, design shops, and coffee shops, while Palermo Hollywood is known for its restaurants and bars. During the day, the atmosphere is relaxed and green; in the evening, the focus shifts to dining and nightlife. It is a neighborhood where many locals spend their free time and where the city feels at its most contemporary.
Recoleta
Elegance and tranquility define the streetscape here. Wide avenues, classical architecture, and well-maintained squares give the neighborhood an almost European character. Museums and cultural institutions are within walking distance of chic cafes and restaurants. Recoleta is ideal for those who want to experience Buenos Aires at a relaxed pace, with comfort and a clear view.
San Telmo
Historic, lively, and a tad unpolished. The neighborhood consists of narrow streets, old houses, and squares where street life never really stands still. Especially on weekends, San Telmo comes to life with markets, music, and tango in the streets. It is a neighborhood with character, where the past remains clearly palpable.
Puerto Madero
Sleek, modern, and built around the water. Here you will find tall buildings, luxury hotels, and restaurants with views of the harbor. The neighborhood feels spacious and international, and is pleasant for a walk along the quays. At the same time, Puerto Madero sometimes lacks the depth and spontaneity of the older neighborhoods.
La Boca
Colorful and distinctive, with a strong cultural identity. Brightly colored houses, street art, and tango define the scene, especially around the most famous streets. La Boca is mainly visited during the day and is inextricably linked to the city's working-class history. Touristy, but also an important symbol of Buenos Aires.
STAY OVERNIGHT
Algodon Mansion
Montevideo 1647, Recoleta
This is Buenos Aires at its most refined. Algodon Mansion is small, exclusive, and distinctly chic, with spacious suites, high ceilings, and a classic ambiance that perfectly suits the stately streets of Recoleta. Everything here exudes tranquility and discretion, from the interior to the service. A hotel for those who appreciate elegance without visible effort, and luxury that feels above all comfortable.
Hub Porteno
Rodríguez Peña 1967, Recoleta
With only eleven rooms, Hub Porteño is more of a private residence than a hotel. Abundant marble, soft colors, and an intimate atmosphere create that typical Buenos Aires feel: cosmopolitan, yet personal. The location is ideal for those wishing to explore Recoleta on foot, with galleries, parks, and restaurants just around the corner. Quiet, stylish, and just the right dose of grandeur.
Be Jardin Escondido by Coppola
Gorriti 4746, Palermo
Hidden behind an unassuming facade lies the former home of filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola. BE Jardin Escondido feels like a well-kept secret: a tranquil courtyard, a small pool, and a handful of rooms that combine privacy and character. This is Palermo at its most understated, far from the hustle and bustle but right in the city center. Unique without being ostentatious.
Legado Mitico
Gurruchaga 1848, Palermo Soho
“Legado Mitico is warm and personal, with rooms that reference Argentine icons from art, literature, and history. Not a sleek design hotel, but a place with stories and texture. The atmosphere is homey, the service attentive, and the location perfect for those wanting to discover Palermo Soho. A hotel with a soul, where you quickly feel at home.”
Mine Hotel Boutique
Gorriti 4770, Palermo
Mine Hotel is lively, cozy, and deliberately small-scale. It feels more like a stylish home than a hotel, with a green courtyard, a relaxed breakfast, and a team that knows the neighborhood well. Its location near Plaza Cortázar makes it an ideal base for shops, bars, and restaurants. Informal, comfortable, and with a nice energy.
RESTAURANTS
Aramburu
Vicente López 1661, Recoleta
This remains the absolute top. Aramburu works with a tasting menu of a high technical level, where everything revolves around taste and precision. The restaurant is small and intimate, without frills or show. What you get is pure concentration on the plate. International level, Michelin-worthy, but without any pretension. It is the kind of place where every course feels thought-out and nothing is left to chance.
Trescha
Murillo 725, Villa Crespo.
Sleek and modern, with a slight Scandinavian influence, but clearly rooted in Argentina. The young team cooks with great creativity and attention to detail. Trescha feels like fine dining of today: innovative, personal, and not distant. You can tell that the cooking here is driven by curiosity and pleasure, not by rigid rules.
Mishiguene
Lafinur 3368, Recoleta
Jewish-Argentine cuisine is approached here in a contemporary way. Fermentation is used extensively, and the stories behind the dishes play an important role. The setting is unique and atmospheric. Not classically luxurious, but strong in substance and truly distinctive. This is a restaurant that stays with you, precisely because it tells a story.
Crizia
Fitz Roy 1819, Palermo
Primarily known for seafood and oysters, but always with a creative twist. The atmosphere is elegant without being formal, which keeps the restaurant accessible. The wine list is well-curated and the energy in the place is pleasant and relaxed. A lovely spot for a long evening without a tight schedule.
Gran Dabbang
Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, Palermo
“Perhaps slightly less formal than the rest, but exceptionally strong in substance. Gran Dabbang combines Asian and Latin American influences into distinctive dishes full of flavor. It is a favorite among chefs and food lovers. Luxury here lies not in the tableware, but in the quality and originality of the cuisine. Expect a lively evening where flavors take center stage.”
BARS
Behind Bar
Costa Rica 4993, Palermo
Small, quiet, and with a great attention to the craft. Behind Bar is all about cocktails that just right, without any fuss. The menu changes regularly and follows the seasons. The crowd is relaxed and often stays longer than planned. A nice place to start the evening quietly, even if you just want to enjoy a good glass. The atmosphere is personal and unpretentious.
Backroom Bar
Jorge Luis Borges 1975, Palermo Soho
You just need to know where to go, but that’s exactly what makes Backroom Bar fun. The atmosphere is relaxed and almost homey. The cocktails are classic, with an eye for balance. The music supports the conversation, not the other way around. Ideal for an informal evening where time flies by. Especially popular with locals.
BrukBar
Fray Justo Sta. Maria de Oro 1801, Palermo Soho
BrukBar feels lively and creative, without becoming restless. Original flavor combinations take center stage here. The crowd is young and curious. Don't expect a standard menu, but surprising choices. A bar that invites you to experiment and discover something new. The setting is relaxed and contemporary.
Florería Atlántico
Arroyo 872, Retiro
Hidden behind a flower shop is one of the city's most famous bars. Florería Atlántico combines Argentine influences with an international cocktail style. The space is warm and carefully decorated. Despite its popularity, it still feels personal. It is a firm favorite for lovers of good bars for good reason. Reservations are recommended.
878
Thames 878, Villa Crespo
There is almost always a pleasant buzz at 878. The bar looks classic, but never feels stiff. Cocktails are full of flavor and consistently well executed. The crowd is mixed and local. A place where you can easily hang out until late. Also suitable for a spontaneous evening.
Uptown
Arevalo 2030, Palermo Hollywood
“Uptown takes a bit of searching, and that is part of the experience. You enter through an old metro station and a stationary carriage. Once inside, the bar itself has little to do with the metro and looks beautiful. The atmosphere is lively and contemporary. Cocktails are well-crafted and creative. Nice as a change of pace during a night out.”
SHOPPING
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Av. Sta. Fe 1860, Recoleta
An old theater that has been converted into a bookstore, and you can still see that everywhere. The balconies, the stage, and the ceiling have remained intact. Even if you don't read Spanish, this is a pleasant place to walk around. You will find art books, music, and souvenirs. Downstairs on the stage, there is a café where you can take a break. A shop where atmosphere is at least as important as what you buy.
Mercado de San Telmo
Bolívar 970, San Telmo
This covered market is ideal for browsing and buying local products. Nestled among the food stalls are small shops selling leather goods, vintage items, and souvenirs. The selection varies and feels authentic. You can easily pick something up to take home. At the same time, it is also a good place to simply look around. It is especially nice if you are not looking for a standard souvenir.
Mate & Co
Pilcomayo 314, Palermo
Anyone visiting Argentina will inevitably come across mate. In this shop, everything revolves around this national drink. You will find gourds, straws, and various types of yerba mate. Everything is explained calmly, even for beginners. It is a typical local product that is easy to take with you. A nice way to buy something cultural without becoming cliché.
Sarkany
Av. Salguero 3172, Palermo
For those interested in Argentine design. The shoes are striking, yet remain wearable. Many models cannot be found anywhere else. The stores are well-organized and have a modern interior. The brand is popular with locals. A nice place to pick up something you won't easily see elsewhere.
La Casa del Dulce de Leche
Defensa 733, Monserrat
Dulce de leche is an indispensable part of Argentine cuisine. Everything in this shop revolves around this product. You will find various varieties here, from classic to artisanal. It also makes a nice gift or is great to take home. The staff helps you choose. A small shop, but typically Argentine.
TO DO
Baja Bikes Buenos Aires
Plaza General San Martín (meeting point)
A bike tour is a great way to get to know the city better. This tour is organized by a Dutch person and is accessible and well-organized. You cycle through various neighborhoods and get plenty of context along the way. The pace is relaxed. Suitable for those who want to get an overview in a short time.
Recoleta Cemetery
June 1760, Recoleta
This cemetery feels more like a small city than a graveyard. Narrow streets lead past impressive mausoleums, including that of the famous first lady and politician Evita Perón. You can easily walk around here for an hour. It is interesting even without a guide. A peaceful place in the middle of the city.
Teatro Colón
Cerrito 628, Centro
Teatro Colón is one of the most famous opera houses in the world. Even if you don't attend a performance, a tour is worthwhile. The building is grand, yet stylish. You get a good sense of the cultural history of Buenos Aires. Great for architecture lovers.
Bosques de Palermo
Av. Infanta Isabel 410, Palermo
This park offers space and tranquility within the city. Ideal for a walk or to escape the traffic for a while. It is lively on weekends, but relaxed during the week. You see locals exercising and relaxing here. A nice change from the urban pace.
