A dress that breathes, illuminates, and literally lives: Iris van Herpen thrilled Paris during Haute Couture Week with her "living look." This enchanting design from the Sympoiesis collection features an impressive 125 million living algae, proving that couture in 2025 is as much about science as it is about beauty.

The "living look" was created thanks to a collaboration between Van Herpen, biodesigner Chris Bellamy, and biophysicists from the University of Amsterdam. They had been studying how the algae respond to movement or pressure since 2019. Ultimately, the luminous cells were incorporated into a flexible gel substance that can also survive outside of water.

The dress itself is made of organically shaped tubes that drape around the body like an elegant exoskeleton. But those who think it's merely a visual spectacle are mistaken: the algae require careful treatment, with a balanced balance of light, water, and temperature to maintain their glow. 

"It emphasizes the interdependence between humans and nature"

Sympoiesis literally means "making together," and that idea is the common thread throughout the entire collection. Van Herpen drew inspiration from James Lovelock's Gaia theory, which posits that the ocean, atmosphere, and climate together form one large, self-regulating system. This vision of interconnectedness also underlies her own philosophy, which she aptly expresses:

This collection is a collaboration with nature itself. In this time of ecological emergency and biodiversity loss, biodesign invites us to rethink how we 'use' materials, to envision a future in which all human design is not simply inspired by nature but intertwined with it. It emphasizes the interdependence between humans and nature, viewing the body not as an isolated object but as an ecosystem where fashion is alive, responsive, and deeply connected to the natural world.